solution? from marty weiss on 2 Oct '18

milk crate to stand on

Window thingie from Pam on 2 Oct '18

Hmmm, what is that thing called? I Googled "telescoping hatch window stay" and found a lo of examples of this (which looks like the bottom half of the gizmo in the photo). I'll keep poking around and see if anything pops up.

Bar Gizmo from Bill on 2 Oct '18

Apparently it's called a "hatch adjuster", and Googling that brings up a bunch of them. This is one that looks a little like yours: I think this one is a little too small, because the arm is only just 8+ inches. Also, it looks like it may only mount to the side and not in the middle. Finally, how far can you comfortably reach toward the bottom of that window? The arm on whatever you install has to reach from there to the bottom of the window at its farthest open point. That may be more than the 8+ inches this one offers. There are longer ones around, but this is the only one I saw that swivels like the one on Irish Charmer.

Hi Marty. from Janice aboard Seaweed on 4 Oct '18

Alas the milk crate solution failed. The box I was standing on slid. It was not pretty. I also tried leaning with the bar stool. There is a span of 36" between the instruments and the window. The knob is a few inches up from there.

The one on the right side I can reach by standing on the edge of my bunk leaning in. That could not be considered wise if there is any sort of wave action.

With both knobs loose I can use my back scratcher to knock the aluminum bar on the port side while jiggling the one on the starboard to open the window. Closing is easier. The whole process would be much better if I can locate one of the Irish Charmer gizmos. That's the goal!

Thank you Marty for your input. I appreciate it. J.

Telescoping is the word. from Janice aboard Seaweed on 4 Oct '18

That is very helpful Pam. I could not figure out what to call it. Alas, because of my configuration I suspect I will need the two part gizmo such as what Irish Charmer has. The part that attaches to the window has to be horizontal, AND the part that moves must rotate vertically. Argh!

The area in front of my helm (in my cabin that's where my shower is, with the head all the way to the port side)... well, it's big. Big enough for chartbooks. That is very handy when underway. I keep a tablet with OpenCPN on it up there too. (Side note/reminder: Check out OpenCPN for your tablet. The charts are Free from NOAA and OpenCPN for tablets/androids is $10. It is free for laptops/netbooks, though you will want one with a built in GPS. For my netbook I have an external (attaches via USB) GPS ($20, Amazon) ... anyway, though I can and do have OpenCPN on the netbook, the tablet uses less power and is more convenient. Something to play with before you set sail...

Anyway, thank you so much for providing the word to help me find what I need. I appreciate that Pam. Your friend in the south, J.

Thank you Bill. from Janice aboard Seaweed on 4 Oct '18

The FisheriesSupply is a good clue. I measured, when the window is open it extends 16" from the bottom of the frame. I'm guessing the part that goes from the bar at the base would have to be at least 24" to open the window fully.

Now when I have the knobs loosened I can tap the port side bar while jiggling the starboard and get it to go up a notch or two on the aluminum bars. That works fairly well. However, and its'a big However, I can't secure it well. When those afternoon thunderboomers come along and the window is not locked down it will blow open and get everything including my bunk wet from the blowing rain. Been there/done that/cleaned up the mess too.

We are closer than before so that is a good thing. I cannot complain too loudly as this was an issue ten-plus years ago when I bought Seaweed.

I am going to continue checking and if I can get by Lizotte's welding shop it is possible they can make me something. Those men are amazing!

In the meantime, thank you for the direction/ideas. I am going to move on this project in the coming season. I'd like it resolved before the summer. Thanks again Bill, and thank you for your input. That is helpful. J.

Note: from Janice aboard Seaweed on 4 Oct '18

In looking at this unit on Irish Charmer, it seems like the base part looks similar to a hand rail. There's a possibility something could be cobbled together using a rail of some sort. I'm still pondering. Just casting that out there in case a reader has a thought regarding using a stainless rail versus bar stock?? J.

window adjuster from Mike Wright on 16 Oct '18

Janice, You could use awning hardware to assemble an opener that would resemble the item in the picture. Sailrite is having a sale on the hardware right now. The items you would need are around $25.00 plus shipping. They are: #121127 4' aluminum tube(cut to size needed) $11.95(could also e found as salvage for less), 3/4" nylon eye end (4ea) # 100673 2-2pk $1.35, 3/4" nylon jaw slide (1ea) #100691 1-2pk $3.60, nylon deck hinge (3ea) #100690 2-2pk $2.30 ea, quick release clevis pin (1ea) #103053 $1.95. You would need to drill holes through the nylon slide and the tubing to lock the window open where you want it, or you could use a thumbscrew (aluminum preferred), but it will not be as secure. Total of the aove items is $24.80 plus shipping from sailrite, but all can be found at a local awning place. Sale code for sailrite is THFALL18. It would not be as pretty as the one in the picture, it would do the job. Mike

Boat Hatch Window from Karen on 18 Oct '18

Hi Janice! I just did a simple search on eBay, they seem to run $30-$35’ish on price for stainless steel. Just need to verify length.

Great information Mike! from Janice aboard Seaweed on 23 Oct '18

I took your advice and ordered everything except the pipe. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I believe that it might just work. You're the best! J.

Good one Karen. from Janice aboard Seaweed on 23 Oct '18

Although the eBay won't quite work for me as I have a short reach, I am going to swipe part of your idea. Instead of ordering the aluminum pipe from Sailrite, I'me going to check around for a couple pieces of stainless railing. That should work, and 3/4" is a common size. I'll admit though Karen that one surely does look good.

The hatch opener on my forward hatch is similar to the one from eBay. Thanks for the guidance. It is appreciated. And thank you too for your help.

This is the time of the year when the windows and hatches are opened and shut more frequently. Well, red tide too, comes and goes. When it is gone I want to have the boat opened up for the wonderful autumn breezes. Then the scratchy eyes reappear, so everything gets closed up. I look forward to messing with the pilothouse window too soon. After I build the opener that is. Thanks again Karen. J.

Hope you can rig up something... from Karen on 23 Oct '18

You’re very welcome, hope some combo of things will work. When I was looking on eBay, you have to look at each auction, really, because each ad has a different length listed. Kind of aggravating, but, I guess they figure if you need it, you’ll go thru looking for the right one. Would love seeing photos when you get it fixed up! &, re: allergies... I should own stock in Benedryl. 🙄

True Karen from Janice aboard Seaweed on 24 Oct '18

The length has been the sticking point. To fully open the window requires a minimum of 18". Most of the ready made ones I saw talked about "large" as being 8". Not even close!

They would work great as marketed for hatches and such. This forward window is 22" square and hinges at the top. It really comes into its own in the summertime. With any breeze at all I can get quite a wind tunnel effect going.

That and I bought a Fan-tastic Vent Fan (that's the name) that is super. It is 12-volts and uses 4Ah on high.

I bought the single direction fan (they have dual for $30 more on Amazon) then worked magic (reversed the polarity) so that the fan will both pull and push. Anyway, I still haven't posted how to change directions for 12-volt items. It's really simple -- just like those motor lifts for outboards and our powered windlasses. Anyway, my switch thing saved me $20 (ten bucks for the switch).

Speaking of Benedryl, check Dollar Tree. It is dirt cheap there and the active ingredient is the same as the name-brand stuff. I saw no difference in efficacy.

If you're interested I wrote an article about medicines that can be found at the Dollar Tree for lots less than at Walmart. It is here:

And yes, I will take pictures. It won't be as fancy as that beautiful brass one, but it should work. Thank goodness for Mike finding those fittings. I had not a clue and now, well, I'll make it work. It won't be as elegant as what you found, but it will work.

Life is good afloat.

As for me, I am bursting with happiness. I've found the last packages of the LED Christmas lights I had been seeking. I've wanted them for a WHOLE YEAR. Really and truly, and they still are not listed on Walmart nor any place else I could find. Anyway, I'll write about them just after Halloween. You have to find 'em if you're in the mood for holiday lights. Side Note: My old strands used 135 watts. These use less than 20 watts. Actually, two strands use 5.8 watts. I have five strands so I've won the Christmas light Lottery. Wowser. So excited.

Okay, I've rambled. Thanks so much for your comments. I really do appreciate them so much. J.

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